Spice University - Oregano

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Mediterranean oregano Origanum vulgare Mexican oregano Lippia graveolens

There are really two oreganos

It’s been several months since I began this project of writing about Herbs & Spices, so I think it is high time I cover one of the most popular herbs in our kitchens. While oregano has been part of the European cuisine for centuries it is a relative new comer to the American scene. World War I saw a modest spike in American interest in oregano, but it wasn’t until the end of World War II that returning GIs began demanding this tasty herb for their tables. They had become accustomed to it while serving in the European Theatre.

Sometimes called wild marjoram, oregano belongs to the mint family and is related to both marjoram and thyme. Because it is more pungent and aromatic, it has to be used with more care than marjoram. Fresh Mediterranean oregano is sometimes available in supermarkets and the dried variety is almost always available. There is a Mexican variety that is much stronger and typically used in highly spiced dishes, especially in Mexican and Tex-Mex recipes.

The Mediterranean variety is widely used in Greek and Italian cuisines. It is the leaves that are used in cooking, and the dried herb is often more flavorful than the fresh. (Remember when substituting dried herbs for fresh herbs 1/3rd dried equals 1 fresh. Whether it is a teaspoon, tablespoon, cup or poundage the substituting equation is always the same.) Together with basil, oregano contributes much to the distinctive character of many Italian dishes. Oregano is used in tomato sauces, fried vegetables and grilled meat. Oregano combines nicely with pickled olives, capers and lovage leaves. Unlike most Italian herbs, oregano works with hot and spicy food, which is popular in southern Italy. The dish most associated with oregano is pizza, which has been eaten in Southern Italy for centuries.

Oregano is an indispensable ingredient for Greek cuisine. Oregano adds flavor to a Greek salad and is usually used separately or added to the lemon-olive oil sauce that accompanies almost every fish or meat barbecue and some casseroles.
Then there is Mexican oregano, which is closely related to lemon verbena. Mexican oregano has a very similar flavor to oregano, but is usually stronger. These two oreganos have become highly regionalized. (Mexican oregano isn’t a true oregano, but work with me on this.) If you were born and raised east of the Mississippi then Mediterranean (Greek or Italian) oregano is what you would know as oregano. On the other hand, if you were born west of the Mississippi, especially Southwest, then Mexican oregano is what you know as oregano. My recommendation is, if you are doing a dish that is Mexican or Tex-Mex and it calls for oregano, use Mexican oregano. If you are doing any other recipe that calls for oregano, then use Mediterranean oregano.

A thin substitute is sweet basil or mint.

Recipes
Holiday Turkey with Mediterranean Oregano
Mole Sauce for the Holiday Turkey
Vegetable Soup Stock
Chili Rellenos

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Herbs de Provence

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Lavender in or lavender out?

Herbs de Provence are also called the French countryside herbs. Legend has it that the French farmers’ wives would simply go out to the hillside and pick these herbs to add to their dishes. The mixture that I sell contains: rosemary, thyme, savory, fennel seed, basil, lavender, and marjoram. It is generally accepted that this mixture was standardized by the larger spice companies in the ‘70’s. Every major spice vendor has their own take on what the final ingredients should be. I have had more than one person vigorously inform me (we tend to be very passionate about our spices) that lavender has no place in Herbs de Provence. I have had just as many counter that they are glad to see that I was smart enough to include lavender. My research into the creation of Herbs de Provence gives me the same 50/50 results.

Over the years there have been many combinations that have gone together to create what we know as the Provençal cuisine. In the Provence region Herbs de Provence are used to grill meat, fish and stews. This combination is always used in its dried form. As with most herbs, it should be added somewhere late in the cooking process so as not to lose the flavors or have the herbs turn bitter on you. The one exception is if you are going to infuse them into the oil that you will use. While it is not particularly easy to get the mixture right, it is definitely worth the effort. The flavors can be incredible. A good addition to any dish from the Mediterranean region, Herbs de Provence are also tasty added to a pizza sauce or sprinkled over game or kabobs, for seasoning salads, sauces and cheeses, as well as soups and stews. Rub the blend on a whole turkey or the breast before roasting. Rub beef, lamb or veal with olive oil and then pat the herbs on before roasting or grilling. If you are using a charcoal grill, you may wish to add a handful to the fire while you are grilling the meat.

Recipes
Herbs de Provence Roasted Chicken
Lavender Provence Pepper Steak
Herbs de Provence Pizza Sauce
Provence Onion Rings









Colonel De Stewart

How Do You Say Asafoetida (English) Asafetida (American)? (a-sə-ˈfe-tə-də)

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Asafetida Ferula assafoetida

At the store I have heard some pretty interesting attempts at pronouncing this unusual spice. The spice, asafetida, is a gum resin produced from the roots of the asafetida plant. Throughout the Middle Ages it was used to ward off plague and other diseases. A piece was sometimes hung around the neck to help ward off these things. It was used in much the same way throughout the 20th Century in the South, on children, to ward of colds and the flu. It would be mixed into a foul-smelling paste and hung in a bag around the afflicted child's neck. One of the reasons it may have kept you from coming down with a cold or flu is that no one wanted to come near you, because you smelled so badly. Thus, you weren't able to get their germs.

Because of the plant’s strong sulfurous smell, it has been given some very derogatory names. It has been called, “devil’s dung”, “stinking gum”, and “devil’s herb”. Since this is a family friendly blog, I can’t even translate the French name for you. Let’s just say it isn’t very nice. However, its odor and flavor become much milder and pleasant upon heating in oil or ghee (clarified butter), acquiring a taste and aroma reminiscent of sautéed onion and garlic. Consequently, there are whole segments of the population in the Middle East (those adhering to the Jain religion and others), who do not eat onions or garlic; use asafetida as a substitute for these flavors in their recipes. It is used in most vegetarian and lentil dishes to both add flavor and aroma and reduce flatulence. That’s a lot to ask of a little powder. For those of you that have an allergic reaction to onions and garlic, you might check with your doctor to see if asafetida is a good substitute for you.

Asafetida has been used as a deterrent for deer and other outside yard marauders for a long time. They don’t seem to like the spice. The only exception is the American wolf, which seems to be attracted to the aroma.

While most other countries in the Middle East use asafetida in its powdered form, in India the green parts of the plant are used as a vegetable.

Recipes

Alu Matar
Bajji Vegetable Fries
Spicy Tomatoes with Mushrooms
Spiced Okra









Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Mustard

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

White or Yellow mustard Brassica alba (Brassica hirta/Sinapis alba), Brown mustard Brassica juncea, Black mustard Brassica nigra

Why is mustard yellow?

There are a variety of plants grown for their acrid seeds and leaves collectively called Mustard Greens. The leaves may be used in salads or cooked with, or as a substitute for, spinach. Mustard belongs to the same family as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, and kohlrabi. For centuries mustard has been used for culinary, as well as, medicinal purposes. Most notably it’s used as a curative for the common cold. I don't think there has been a child born before 1950 that has not had to suffer through at least one mustard plaster. The name comes from the Roman mixture of crushed mustard seed and must (unfermented grape juice), called mustum ardens or burning wine.

Because mustard seeds are so small, they have figured in much ancient writings. Mustard is used as an example by Buddah, in the Quran, and by Jesus in one of his parables in the Bible. Not bad for an itty bitty seed. Pope John XXII liked prepared mustard so well that he created a new position within the Vatican, 'grand moutardier du pape', or 'mustard maker to the pope'.

Mustard seeds are sold whole, ground into powder, or processed further in prepared mustard. Most of us know mustard by the form of prepared mustard. It is typically referred to as that “yellow stuff” we put on hot dogs at the ball park. As weird as it may sound, it is not the mustard seed that makes this prepared mustard yellow, but the addition of turmeric to the mix that suddenly makes it very yellow.

There are two major types of mustard seed, white (or yellow) and brown (or Asian). There is a third variety that is black which is the most pungent but has been replaced mostly by brown because it can be grown more easily and economically. White seeds are relatively large. Their flavor is spicy and almost sweet. Brown mustard seeds have a flavor that is hot and slightly bitter. Toast either sort of seeds in a little butter or oil in a skillet until you smell them.

Mustard seed's hot spicy flavor is great with meats, fish, fowl, sauces, and salad dressings. Whole mustard seed is used in pickling or in boiling vegetables such as cabbage or sauerkraut. Brown mustard seeds are an important flavoring in Indian dishes. Powdered mustard has no aroma when dry, but develops a hot flavor when it is mixed with water.

Out of mustard seeds? Try caraway seeds.

Recipes
Cajun Mustard
Maple Mustard BBQ Sauce
Rabbit Pastrami or other Wild Game
Creamy Slaw Dressing
English Pub Mustard

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Rosemary

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Rosmarinus officinalis

Records can be found tracing the use of Rosemary back to 500 BC. For hundreds of years it was used as a treatment for nervous system ailments. It holds a special position among herbs from the symbolism attached to it. It became a symbol of fidelity among newly weds. Not only was it used at weddings, but also at funerals, for decking churches and banquet halls for festivals, as incense in religious ceremonies, and in magical spells. At weddings, it was wound in the wreath worn by the bride, after being dipped in scented water. Anne of Cleves, one of the wives of Henry the VIII, wore such a wreath at her wedding. A Rosemary branch, richly gilded and tied with silken ribbons of all colors, was also presented to wedding guests, as a symbol of love and loyalty.

The botanical name Rosmarinus is derived from the old Latin for 'dew of the sea', a reference to its pale blue dew-like flowers and the fact that it is often grown near the sea. Rosemary is yet another herb that is in the mint family. The mint family gives us a lot of different herbs; basil, marjoram, oregano, and savory to name a few.

It is native to the Mediterranean area, where it grows wild, but it is now cultivated all over Europe and the United States. I have seen it used in certain parts of Arizona as a short hedge in landscaping. Rosemary is a popular spice in many Western countries, but its usage is most popular in its native Mediterranean countries, especially Italy and France, less so Greece. Rosemary does not lose its flavor by long cooking, as many other herbs unfortunately do. Rosemary is one of those herbs that are as potent in the fesh state as in the dried state. There are few herbs as pungent as Rosemary. Being subtle is not one of Rosemary's traits. Looking like a pine needle from a distance, this herb should be ground finely for optimum use. It is also used by better restaurants as a garnish. The flavor has been described as being somewhere between pine, mint, and lemon. It may be purchased in sprigs, as leaves, ground, and as an essential oil.

Use Rosemary for fish, meat (especially poultry), but also for vegetables. It is often used for potatoes and for vegetables fried in olive oil, as commonly prepared in Mediterranean countries. In Italian cuisine, mutton is hardly ever cooked without Rosemary, and broiled poultry wrapped in Rosemary twigs is also very popular. A similar effect can be achieved by sprinkling Rosemary leaves on glowing charcoal during grilling. Rosemary is an ideal herb for flavoring vinegar.

Rosemary is used both in the kitchen and in fragrances for cosmetics. During the winter holiday season there is nothing that will put you in the spirit of the season like Rosemaryed walnuts.

If you just can't seem to find Rosemary, an interesting substitute is oregano or sweet basil leaves and flowers.

Recipes
Meat Pie
Trout with Rosemary & Wrapped with Bacon
Tomato Rosemary Salad
Chicken Salad with Rosemary and Mayonnaise
Rosemaryed Walnuts

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Fruit Powders

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

When is a juice not a juice? When it’s a powder.

The store is known for a lot of things, one of the most unusual is the amount of different powders that are available. There are powdered herbs and spices, vegetable powders (more on these in a later article, and fruit powders. Fruit powder? Yes, I want to cover three of them for you. Most of us are familiar with herb and spice powders, for example, allspice, cumin, basil, mustard, and rosemary are available in powder form to name a few. We use these when we are trying not to introduce a coarse or chewy ingredient into a particular dish. The powder will tend to blend in and not be noticed for its texture, but just for its taste and flavor. Now let’s go over the fruit powders.

All of the powders we will discuss are citrus fruits. First let’s cover orange powder. If you were going to be doing some baking that called for an orange extract or just a touch of orange flavor, I would suggest using a little orange powder. This powder is dehydrated orange juice. So you can even reconstitute it back to orange juice with a teaspoon of powder per quarter cup of water. One of the secrets of using this powder is how well it works in rubs and spice blends. It is also great added to sauces, especially those intended for duck dishes. It is perfect for icings, sauces, glazes. It will add extra flavor to cookies & cakes. If you really want to make a tasty orange treat, add a little orange zest either fresh or dried. We have a blend that we do at the store that is nicknamed, “sin in a jar”. It is a combination of sugar, orange and cinnamon.

The next powder to consider is lemon powder. There are so many ways to use this powder. Many of the customers that come to my store and get lemon powder will use it straight to make lemonade. Just like orange it is one teaspoon of lemon powder to a quarter cup of water. They may also use it to enhance their fresh squeezed lemonade with the powder. As with orange, you can mix it in with lime powder and create all sorts of good things. I like to use it to make citrus salts or mixed with sugar to make a citrus sugar. This powder is great added to rubs and spice blends or simply sprinkled on any meat, but chicken and fish are particularly flavorful. Adding a little lemon zest to the powder is quite good as well. We use this powder along with zest from Spanish lemons and ground Tellicherry peppercorns to make a fantastic lemon pepper. If you want a good example of caveat emptor (buyer beware), go to the grocery store and read the ingredients list on most lemon peppers. Surprise! Most of them contain large amounts of salt. Sigh!

Finally, we come to lime powder. As with lemon powder there are many ways to use lime powder. I often use it combined with lemon powder to give me a very strong citrus flavor. Now that we are in the troughs of summer and fresh corn on the cob is readily available, take lemon powder, lime powder and pink peppercorns (ground to a powder). Mix these together and then add them to butter (make as if you were making an herbed butter). Now spread this wonderful compound butter on an ear of fresh corn and call me when it is ready. You may enhance lime powder with the zest of lime, but it is more difficult to do than with lemons and oranges. Limes have such thin skin that it is hard to zest without getting too much pith along with the zest. This will make the zest more bitter than you will want it. So, be careful when zesting limes.

There are many other fruit powders. Most are used commercially to be added to other products. Working with powders is fun and very rewarding in the kitchen. Don’t hesitate to give them a try.

Recipes

Citrus Peppercorn Herb Butter

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Safflower

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Carthamus tinctorius

This imposter can dye food and cloth.

Another very old spice that was cultivated in ancient Egypt, China, and India is safflower. Colors on fabric found in Egyptian tombs have been tested and shown to contain safflower dyes. A garland containing safflower flowers was found in Tutankhamen’s tomb. Even though it has been grown for such a long time, it is usually grown on small plots for the farmers own use. It is a minor world crop grown mostly for its seeds, which have the oils extracted from them to make a low cholesterol oil that has a delicate flavor when used in cooked dishes. While there are over 60 countries that grow safflower, over half of the production comes from India.

Safflower was grown for its flowers to make dyes, especially before cheaper synthetic dyes became available. There is much confusion between expensive saffron and the much less expensive safflower. The flower petals, which are slightly bitter, have been used as a substitute for saffron in coloring foods. It does not have the same flavor as saffron. Some use it to adulterate saffron making a less expensive form of this very expensive spice. Another thing that safflower and saffron have in common is their Arabic language roots which both mean yellow.

The flowers look a lot like those of a thistle plant. Thistle and artichoke are both relatives of safflower. The flowers give both a yellow and a red color agent. Most of my female readers will know what rouge or blush is. Blush is obtained by adding the red element of safflower with fine powdered talc.

Safflower flowers in today’s cuisine have little to offer. They do appear in some Mediterranean mixes and it is sometimes used in the Georgian (Russia) mixture known as khmeli suneli which is mentioned in the A Little Spice of Life on savory. The seeds are often used in bird feed. It is sometimes substituted for sunflower seeds in bird feed since squirrels don’t seem to feed on safflower like they do sunflower. Within the last 2 years a genetically modified safflower has been developed that produces insulin. This holds great promise for many insulin dependent diabetics.

Recipes
Mayonnaise
Peanut Sauce
Applesauce Cake

Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice
Findlay Market
1801 Race St., Stall 133 - 135
Cincinnati, OH 45202
513 421 4800

Spice University - Rose

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel with an additional contribution from my friend Philomena Ashdown

Rosa

O, my love's like a red, red rose - Robert Burns A Red, Red Rose

You just can't talk about a rose without invoking the spirit of love and romance. The ancient Greeks and Romans identified the rose with their goddesses of love referred to as Aphrodite and Venus. Roses are ancient symbols of love and beauty. The rose was sacred to a number of goddesses (including Isis and Aphrodite), and is often used as a symbol of the Virgin Mary. Roses are so important that the word means pink or red in a variety of languages (such as the Romance languages, Greek, and Polish).

In Ancient Rome a wild rose would be placed on the door of a room where secret or confidential matters were discussed. The phrase sub rosa, or "under the rose", means to keep a secret — derived from this ancient Roman practice.

Grown for thousands of years, roses were cultivated as much for their culinary and medicinal uses as for their beauty and fragrance. I could go on and on about roses, as growing them is one of my favorite hobbies, but I won’t. Rose hips are eaten because of their high vitamin C content. Rose hips are used for making vinegar, syrups, preserves, herbal tea, and wines. Flower petals are added to salads and desserts, crystallized, made into jellies, jams, and conserves. Distilled rose water is used to flavor confectionery and desserts, especially in Middle Eastern dishes. This would indicate that they are mainly used in sweets, but rose petals are also found in the savory Moroccan spice mix, ras el hanout, and in North African sausages.

Culinary rose essence can be found in Asian or Indian grocery and spice stores. In China, native rose species (e.g., R. rugosa) have long been used as a source for floral scents in perfumery and for producing rose-flavored black tea.

For centuries, the divine fragrance of rose has been captured and preserved in the form of rose water by the simple process of steam distillation of fresh rose petals with water. It is an ancient method that can be traced back to biblical times in the Middle East, and later to the Indian sub-continent. Rose oil and rose concrete are produced in larger quantities than rose water. The world production of these was estimated to be fifteen to twenty ton in 1986 (the most recent figures I can find), with Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, France, and Italy being the largest producers.

This months guest chef is Philomena Ashdown. She is actually an attorney, but is a great cook.

Colonel De and I befriended each other through our common love for spices and cooking and then found out that we also had another common business connection. He asked that I share recipes with his blog using the rose flavor. So here I am, a transplant to Cincinnati from Madras nka Chenna, India, with my ethnic roots from Mangalore.

Long before Nestle invented strawberry syrups and other flavorings, Indian cuisine had “Rose Essence”, used mostly for desserts and drinks. The delicate rose flavor has a more sharp yet delicate aroma than saffron but because it is less expensive, it is used commonly in desserts sold by the ubiquitous road-side “Mithai walla” (Mithai- means “sweet” – sweets vendor). In India, “sweetmeat” or “sweets” refers to desserts.
The “Mithais” sold by the roadside are also identified by their vibrant colors- almost neon-like pinks and greens, so much so that even fabric colors are also described as “mithai pink or mithai orange ” as opposed to the “peacock blue”, “parrot green “ or “sunflower yellow”.

Since rose essence is colorless, recipes call for adding a touch of red food coloring to make the dish slightly pink, so as to enhance the “rose” connection. You can pick up rose essence at any Indian grocery store.

The most common recipe using rose essence is the drink called “Falooda”. As with most Indian recipes, there can be numerous variations of the same dish, so here is my personal adaptation of this drink recipe.


PHILOMENA SALDANHA ASHDOWN
ashdown@fuse.net

Recipes

Kheer (Rice Pudding)from Philomena Saldanha Ashdown
Spinach Salad w/ Walnuts & Feta w/ Rose Petals
Sharbat Gulab from Philomena Saldanha Ashdown
Soji Halwa (Cream of Wheat Bars from Philomena Saldanha Ashdown











Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Nigella

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Nigella sativa

There is a lot of confusion about the name of this spice. Nigella seeds are also known as kalonji, black cumin, black caraway or black onion seeds. They are the tiny, tear-drop shaped seeds of a small plant whose beautiful flowers have been known for a long time as Love-In-A-Mist. To make matters worse the seeds are sometimes confused with black sesame seeds which have a similar size and color. In an effort to clear up some of the confusion, let me point out that there really is a black cumin seed (kala jeera) and some onion seeds are very similar, but they are not nigella seeds and would not taste the same in a dish. True onion seeds tend to have little, if any, flavor and the flavor that they do have tends to be rather unpleasant.

Nigella’s main application area is Turkey, Lebanon and Iran. From Iran, nigella usage spread to Northern India, particularly Punjab and Bengal, where the spice is mostly used for vegetable dishes. Their dusty jet black color and earthy, distinct onion flavor is an essential part of Panch Phoran (Indian Five Spice), a Bengali spice mixture.

The black seeds taste oniony yet some say they taste like oregano crossed with pepper. Most people use it as a "pepper" in recipes with pod fruit, vegetables, salads and poultry. Because of nigella seeds crunchy texture, it is sprinkled over soft tandoor-baked breads, such as naan, as is done in Northern India. While the seeds are used as a spice in Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine, in the Balkan region it is sometimes used with or instead of peppercorns in a pepper mill.

Recipes

Bengali Fish Curry
Potatoes With Crushed Nigella Seeds
Naan with Nigella Seeds










Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Thyme

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Thymus vulgaris

One of the more popular herbs in the American cuisine is thyme. There are many varieties of thyme. The most common are garden thyme and wild thyme. Garden thyme is sometimes referred to as English thyme or common thyme. Wild thyme is preferred in French cuisine, where it is a widely used herb. Another variety, lemon thyme, is an exquisite blend of the earthiness of thyme and the pure freshness of lemon. Lemon thyme is achieved by crossing common thyme with wild thyme.

There are very few poultry, meat, or vegetable dishes that can't be improved with the use of thyme. Thyme is also used for soups, fish, and eggs. Thyme is one of the ingredients in Bouquet Garni (typically parsley, thyme, and bay). It is also one of the ingredients in Herbs de Provence (usually chervil, tarragon, savory, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, lavender and sometimes fennel). The only caution in using thyme is that, in general, you should use less than you think will be needed. Remember, it is much easier to add more should the flavor be too flat.

Thyme’s popularity is nearly global. It is a common herb in Britain second only to mint in popularity. In addition to the myriad uses in American cuisine, thyme is also used in Cajun and Creole cooking. Thyme is a key herb in several Asian cuisines, as well as, being found in Jamaican dishes and Central American foods.

When you can't find thyme (no pun intended), you could try young sage leaves and flowers.

This months guest chef is Marilyn Harris.

Recipes

French Chicken in Red Wine
Pasta Salad w/Broccoli & Artichokes
Simple Savory Roasted Chicken
Italian Sausage Soup










Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Bay

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Bay laurel Laurus nobilis and California Bay laurel Umbellularia californica

Bay is the Herb of the Year for 2009 as selected by the International Herb Association. Each year this group chooses a different herb to reign as Herb of the Year creating greater awareness for each herb chosen.

This ancient herb, bay laurel, also known as true laurel, sweet bay, Grecian laurel, comes from a Mediterranean evergreen. It has long, narrow, pointed, dark, and leathery leaves. The flavor is between eucalyptus, mint, lemon and fresh cut grass and has been described as smoky & spicy. Don't confuse this with California bay which is what is usually sold here as bay leaves. The leaves have a similar shape, but the California bay leaf feels softer by comparison. The flavor is pungent, sweet, lemony, and spicy, with a hint of cloves and bizarrely, turpentine.

It is the source of the laurel wreath of ancient Greece, and then later the expression of "resting on one's laurels". In the Bible, the sweet-bay is often an emblem of prosperity and fame. It is also the source of the word baccalaureate (laurel berry), and of poet laureate.

We are always cautioned not to eat bay leaves. Why is that? The reason is rather simple. bay leaves are very tough and when broken or chewed display very sharp edges. Our systems have a difficult time breaking these leaves down and making them soft. So, as they move through our bodies, they become like small razors tracking through our systems. The swallowed leaves can cause serious injury to your esophagus, stomach and more. Always remove the bay leaves from whatever dish you have prepared.

If you are out of bay leaves you may substitute thyme.

Recipes

Hearty Beef Stew
Paté Maison
Rabbit Stew
Urad Dhal









Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Lemon Balm

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel


Lemon balm Melissa officinalis

A great lemon flavor that, well, isn’t from the lemon. The mildest of the lemon group of herbs

A member of the mint family, lemon balm is used as a calmative. It was used in the Middle Ages to reduce anxiety and stress. As a native of Southern Europe, it is still very popular and widely available in Europe. In Central Europe, lemon balm is sometimes used to flavor sweet drinks.

Lemon balm has lemon scented mint like leaves that are most often used to make an aromatic tea called Tisane. Its slightly tart flavor is used in salads and with poultry and meat dishes. Lemon balm is often used as a flavoring in ice cream and herbal teas, both hot and iced.

Most of the time, lemon balm is used in combination with other herbs such as spearmint. It has a great affinity with fruit, especially apples and is also frequently paired with fruit dishes or candies. Lemon balm can be used to add zest to sweet or tangy dishes. Besides spearmint mentioned earlier, it works well with allspice, bay leaves, mint, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Lemon balm is also great in fruit salads, green salads, herb butters, fruit drinks, and sorbets.

It can be used in egg dishes, custards, soups and casseroles. It is a delicious complement in stuffing for poultry, lamb or pork. Its subtle lemon flavor is perfect for sauces and marinades for fish. Lemon balm and chervil are also a good combination. Use lemon balm leaves for any dish containing lemon juice to get a more intense lemon aroma. If you are a pesto fan, like I am, try substituting lemon balm for basil in a batch of pesto. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

As balm, this herb is mentioned in the Bible. If there is no lemon balm to be had try lemon grass or lemon verbena.

Recipes

Smoked Salmon with Lemon Balm
Lemon Balm Syrup
Honey & Lemon Balm Tea Cookies
Lemon Balm Liqueur

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Dill

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Dill Anethum graveolens

Dill means pickling and so much more

Dill weed has been around for thousands of years. Romans in the first century were convinced that dill brought good luck. The name dill, probably came from the Saxon word dillan, to lull, for its ability to soothe colicky babies and for the Greek tradition of covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep.

Dill leaves have a flavor that is pungent and slightly tangy, almost caraway tasting. Dill is one of the best complements for many foods not to mention their importance to dill pickles. Fresh leaves loose their flavor quickly when being cooked. For this reason it is always best to add them as near the end of the cooking cycle as possible. The herb is sold as both fresh and dried. There is quite a difference between the flavor of fresh and dried dill weed. While heat is the enemy of fresh and dried dill leaves, it brings out the flavor of the seeds. Dill seed, actually the fruit of the herb, are more strong and pungent than their counterpart, leaves. Dill seeds are the part of the dill plant used most often in its namesake dill pickles.

The characteristic, sweet taste of dill is popular all over Europe, Western, Central and Southern Asia. In Europe, it is mostly used for bread, vegetable (especially cucumber), pickles, and fish; for the last application, the leaves are preferred. It is also indispensable for herb flavored vinegars.

In North Eastern Europe and Russia, dill is popular for pickled vegetables, which are produced in great variety, usually by pickling in vinegar. Fresh dill sprigs are mandatory in most recipes of that kind. In these regions with long, cold winters, preserved vegetables are an important source of vitamins and fresh flavor for the otherwise dull winter diet. Dill is also one of the few herbs used in the cooking of the Baltic states, where chopped dill is a frequent decoration on various foods (e.g., boiled potatoes), similar to the use of parsley and chives in other European countries.

Fresh dill leaves (dill weed) is a kind of “national spice” in Scandinavian countries, where fish or shellfish dishes are usually either directly flavored with dill or served together with sauces containing dill. German cooks also tend to use dill mostly for fish soups and stews. Dill reached the Northern latitudes probably via medieval monasteries, where it was grown as a medicinal herb.

Dill has, however, retained its popularity in its original homeland, Asia. Dried dill shows up in Georgia's (Russian Georgia not the US Georgia) famous spice mixture, khmeli-suneli and is also quite popular in Iran, where dill weed is usually employed for bean dishes, e.g., rice with boiled lima beans, baghali polo.

In India, however, dried dill fruits are occasionally used to flavor the lentil and bean dishes known as dal.

Recipes

Dill Lemon Cod or Salmon
Carrot Sticks and Dill
Marinated Vegetable Salad











Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Nutmeg

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Nutmeg - Myristica fragrans

As far as I know, (and I am counting on you out there to set me straight), there are only three rather common plants that give us two very different spices from each plant. Eventually we will cover them all, but let’s start with, nutmeg and mace. I’ll give mace its due in a future article, but mace is the somewhat lacy cover of the nut that we call nutmeg. There is one more plant that does this but in our European based cuisine we rarely use either one. I'm talking about fenugreek seeds and fenugreek leaves. Never the less, we will cover these as well, some time later.

When Columbus sailed off and found a continent we all know and love, one of the spices he was looking for was nutmeg. Native to the Spice Islands, the seed of the nutmeg tree (a tropical evergreen) was very popular throughout the world from the 15th to the 19th century. In Colonial times in America, if you were invited to a fancy meal, even if it were being hosted by President George the First, you were expected to bring your own nutmeg, which you would grind onto the meat dish. You brought your own because it was too expensive for your host to provide. You used it on the meat of the feast in an effort to cover up the bad flavor of the usually partially rotted meat. Remember, no refrigeration back then.

Nutmeg can be used on savory things, as in the example of the meat above. It is still good used on meat, though these days the meat is usually not as rotten. But, we also love nutmeg in sweet dishes. In the Southern tradition a fruit pie just isn’t quite ready to be cooked if there isn’t some nutmeg in it. During the Holiday Season, I won’t drink my Egg Nog if there isn’t a good brisk brushing of nutmeg on top.

Nutmeg is best freshly grated. The flavor is delicately warm, spicy, and sweet.

If you don't have nutmeg, try using mace, but be gentle as mace is much stronger.

Recipes
This first recipe was accidentally left off of last month's list of recipes for chives. It is by my very dear friend Rita Heikenfeld. This is a "must try" recipe.

Shaker Herb Soup

These recipes are for this month's spice, nutmeg.

Butternut Squash and Cranberry Bread
Melon Soup
Scalloped Oysters 2

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Chives

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Chives Allium schoenoprasum

Chives, a bold flavor from the smallest of the onion family.

Chives are diminutive tubular versions of scallion leaves (from the Latin ascalonia meaning onion from Ascalon). FYI, Ascalon (then spelled Ashkelon) was the oldest and largest sea port in ancient Israel. The Battle of Ascalon in 1099 is often considered the last action of the First Crusade.

Chives are the smallest member of the onion family. I used to wonder why they were always referred to in the plural. I never saw anything that referred to a chive. The answer is that they grow in clumps and not as individual flowers, so they are quite rightly, chives. When Columbus and others came to the new world there were very few plants and especially herbs that were familiar to them. They did know chives. It is one of the few herbs native to both the Old World and the New World.

Chives are used often in French cuisine. It is one of the four herbs found in fine (pronounced feen) herbs along with tarragon, chervil, and parsley. Fine herbs are also referred to as French sweet herbs. Given the fame and notoriety of French cooking, it is not surprising to find chives as a part of the cooking scene. What is a little surprising is that chives are also a major player in the Swedish cuisine. The reason for this is probably that they are one of the few herbs that can grow in a very cool climate.

When used in dishes, add the snipped chives close to the end of cooking to preserve their flavor and crispness. Both chives and their edible pink and lavender colored flowers are a tasty and colorful addition to salads. These flowers are also excellent when used to make flavored vinegars especially when using white wine vinegar as the base. Chives give a hint of onion flavor to egg dishes, cheese soufflés, salads, soups, cream cheese sandwiches, and sour cream dressing for baked potatoes. Chive butter is great with grilled chops and steak.

A member of the lily family, many of its cousins also appear in this collection. They include; onions, garlic chives, Welsh onion and garlic.

When chives are unavailable green onion tips may be substituted.

Recipes

Chives Halibut Stew
Chives Roasted Vegetables

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Paprika

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Paprika Capsicum annum

Paprika is made from certain very finely ground red pepper pods. The color can vary from light bright orange red to dark deep red. The flavor varies from sweet and mild to pungent and hot. Mild paprika can be found in any well stocked supermarket, while ethnic stores or specialty spice vendors will be necessary for a hotter more robust paprika.

Different varieties of bell peppers have been cultivated in America long before the arrival of the Europeans, so their native countries cannot be determined. South American origin is, however, established for all species of the genus Capsicum, which emerged probably in the area bordering Southern Brazil and Bolivia. The species started moving to the North by birds dropping seeds. Since paprika plants tolerate nearly every type of climate, the fruits are produced all over the world. But most of what is produced commercially comes from Spain, South America, California, and Hungary. Indeed paprika has long been more of a staple in Hungary than just a spice. In Hungary, they have elevated growing these peppers to an art, they have six classes or types of paprika ranging from delicate to hot.

When someone comes to the store and asks for paprika, we always smile and say, “Great, what kind would you like?” There are currently five different varieties available. Most of us know one or perhaps two different kinds, but at the supermarket it is difficult to find any but the mildest sweet variety. One of the varieties that has become increasingly popular is smoked paprika. Some vendors sell a smoked paprika that has had chemical smoke added to it, but the very best has been smoked in the traditional way of smoking peppers, with the smoke from a fire of burning wood. The most popular type seems to be an oak smoked paprika.

The Hungarian cuisine uses paprika in dishes such as chicken paprikash and goulash. It is used in many spiced meat products like Spanish chorizos. Many Spanish, Portuguese and Turkish recipes use paprika for soups, stews and casseroles. In India it is sometimes used in tandoori chicken to give it the red color. It is often used as a garnish for salads, appetizers and eggs. In Spain paprika is used to flavor shell fish dishes, rice, and to season tomato and green pepper salads.

An important thing to remember when using paprika in sauces is that it has a high sugar content and burns easily. Add it only when liquid ingredients are present and do not cook it over high heat for too long. Surprisingly to some, this is the same variety of pepper that we see stuffed ubiquitously in olives. Yep, this is the same pepper that gives us pimento.

If you are out of Paprika you might try ground red pepper, but just an eighth of the amount, as it is far hotter and not as sweet.

The guest chef's for this month are Rita Heikenfeld and Debbie Spangler.

Recipes

Rita's Simple Grilled Chicken
Easy Grilled Asparagus
Paprika Salad Dressing
Paprika Moroccan Chicken
Paprika Pork Roast
Chicken Paprikash










Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Adobo Seasoning

Catch the Colonel Sunday morning January 18th on Q102 FM with Amy Tobin on Amy's Table.

Welcome to Spice University

This is the first installment of what will be a full course on herbs and spices. It is my intent to share with you my knowledge and the knowledge of my staff here at Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice. Several of the chefs and restaurants that we supply have said that they will participate as well. To them I say, thank you. Be sure and give us your feedback on our efforts. I would like for this to be fun as well as educational. Thanks for taking this journey with us.

A Lttle Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Adobo a seasoning, a sauce, and a popular dish.

There are three completely different things that are referred to as adobo. There is adobo seasoning, adobo sauce and adobo (a dish renowned in the Philippines). This has caused a bit of confusion among American cooks. While I am most familiar with the seasoning, let’s take a look at all three of them and try to clear up the mystery of which is what.

Adobo seasoning is a Latino spice mixture used in various countries including Mexico. There can be several different combinations of spices that make up adobo seasoning. But, most will contain salt, garlic, Mexican oregano, and black pepper. Some other ingredients that might be found are onion, cumin, and cayenne pepper.

Adobo seasoning is flavorful and can be mild or hot. Add 1/2 teaspoon per pound for chicken, beef, pork chops, ribs or cutlets, burritos, or to spice up a bland salsa. If you make your own guacamole, adobo will take it to a new level! Some of the many other uses for adobo are as a rub on meats prior to grilling or frying or in taco meat mixtures. These spices are also the perfect seasoning for all your poultry and fish dishes, as well as, bean dishes.

Adobo sauce is a tart and rather sour sauce made of ground chilis, herbs, and vinegar. Most recipes that call for adobo sauce ask for it with chipotles as the chili pepper. Just to add to the confusion, adobo sauce is Latino as well. It is also used fairly extensively in the Southwest as a marinade for meat dishes.

Adobo is a specialty dish from the Philippines that is made with chicken or pork simmered in a mixture of garlic, vinegar and soy sauce. Inside the Philippines the most common meat is pork.

Some in the culinary world think that perhaps adobo made its way in many forms in Mexico, the Caribbean, and, with the same name but different flavors, in the Philippines.

So the next time you hear someone mention adobo you can ask them which variation they are talking about. You will be the expert. I would suggest you try them all. They are each very good.

Recipes

Crusted Tilapia with Adobo Seasoning
Chicken Adobo
Filipino Pork Adobo










Colonel De Stewart

Fox 19 and New Gift Items

I apologize for the late notice, but tomorrow morning I will appear on Fox 19 here in Cincinnati. I should be on sometime between 8:00 and 9:00am. I will be preparing the Colonel's Bourbon Sweet Potatoes.

We also have two new gift items for the holidays. There are two distinctive baskets. The first is our All Bourbon Basket. It contains your choice of one of our three Bourbon Barrel Sorghums, Bourbon Barrel Aged Vanilla Extract, Bourbon Vanilla Sugar, and Bourbon Barrel Smoked Sea Salt.



The second basket is called the Colonel's Favorites. It contains your choice of two of our five herbed vinegars, Herb Shop Cream Cheese mix, your choice of one of our marinades, Grilled Fruit Salad Mix (with the complete recipe), The Colonel's Pork and Poultry Rub, The Colonel's Smokey Rub, The Colonel's Chef's Seasoning Internationale, and The Colonel's Chipotle Spice Blend.




Colonel De Stewart

New Blending Station & Tailgating Recipe

If you have been in the market over the past two months, I'm sure you couldn't help but notice the construction area next to our spice cases. I am happy to announce that the "Blending Station" is now complete. It was worth the wait. Now that the construction is over, this is where you will be able to watch as we blend our many unique spice blends. Make sure you come by and take a look. I look forward to your comments.

While I'm at it I might as well put a plug in for the guys responsible. My buds Tony Zimmerman and Tiny Tim (yes just like Dickens) from AZA Construction built and assembled this masterpiece. (As of this writing, their web site is down. Thanks to the unusual Mid-West hurricane Ike that we experienced on Sunday.) Here is a picture that I took with my cell phone during construction, just to give you an idea of why I am babbleing over this new area of our store.





Here's a treat from Alaina Repic. Alaina is the manager of Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice and a recent Culinary Graduate.

TAILGATE TOUCHDOWNS

Alright you football fanatic foodies, it’s time to don the apron and get to cooking up a spread that will tackle your pre-game hunger and sack your tastebuds. Yes, folks it’s that time of year again!!! It’s football time and no one knows how to party more than a diehard football tailgator. Whether you are enjoying the game at home or have made the pilgrimage to the pre-game parking lot festivities this recipe is sure to please the crowd.

Now, this recipe may be new to some and old to others but when done right it will have your whole team cheering for more. Beer Can Chicken. First things first, before even thinking about throwing my soon-not-secret-rub on the bird you need to soak this bad boy in some of the Col.’s Basil Pepper Garlic Vinegar. Not only will this add tons of flavor to the chicken but it will make it tender and juicy as well. Pour the entire bottle into a large zip lock bag along with the whole chicken (eviscerated of course) and seal it up sometime in the morning. You may flip the bag over a few times to ensure equal coverage. By the time you are ready to start cooking it will be ready to go after patting it dry. Now, for the spices. Below is my recipe for BCC Rub but you may use whatever you like.

¼ c. Smoked Paprika
2 T California Garlic Granules
2 T Onion Granules
1 ½ T Salt
1 T Black Pepper (ground)
1 t New Mexico Chili Powder (optional)

Combine the above ingredients and rub over the chicken, and under the skin. Sprinkle a bit in the body cavity and reserve the rest for the beer can. Speaking of the beer, let’s take a look at our fizzy friends. We have a wide range of choices when it comes to which beer (or cola if necessary) we use. While I prefer a dark beer (i.e. Guinness or Anchor Porter) a nice wheat beer will do just fine. The dark beer adds a depth and sweetness that a regular or light beer just can’t match. Now if you are adverse to beer you can use any cola you like. Either empty half or drink half the can and add the rest of the spices. The last step here is to take an entire head of garlic with top cut off and most of the paper removed and put it down the neck of the bird to prevent the steam from getting out

Now that you have prepped the bird and picked your liquid it’s time to assemble. You may have seen the contraptions they sell to stabilize the concoction but it’s not necessary by any means. It will stay upright because of the can. The only rigging you may want to do is tying the wings together in front of the bird (as demonstrated below)




As for your grill you will want to place an aluminum pan underneath the bird to catch the drippings and prevent flare-ups. The grill or oven needs to be at medium heat (oven @ 350°). The chicken will cook for about an hour and a half, instant thermometer will register 170 when inserted into the crease between the leg and breast. Remove carefully, remember there is a molten can of liquid to contend with. That’s it!!!

Beer Can Chicken goes great with potatoes and roasted corn. Try your corn with Chef’s Seasoning available at Herbs and Spice, you’ll never look at corn the same way again.

Colonel De Stewart

Fox 19 Appearance

From time to time I am asked to make an appearance on Fox 19's morning show. Rob Williams and Sheila Gray are always gracious hosts. For those of you outside of the city, this is the Cincinnati Morning show on our Fox affiliate.

The last time I appeared was on Opening day. That day I boiled jumbo hot dogs in Morlein's Over The Rhine Ale and made Orange Tomato Ketchup.

This time I will be on at about 8:15 am on August 4th. I will be preparing a very delicous summer treat Watermelon Tomato Salad. For those in the Cincinnati viewing area, I hope that you can tune in and see how this works out. I will be given 3 whole minutes to put this salad together and talk to the host. My how time flies when one is having fun.

Colonel De Stewart