Spice University - Mustard

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

White or Yellow mustard Brassica alba (Brassica hirta/Sinapis alba), Brown mustard Brassica juncea, Black mustard Brassica nigra

Why is mustard yellow?

There are a variety of plants grown for their acrid seeds and leaves collectively called Mustard Greens. The leaves may be used in salads or cooked with, or as a substitute for, spinach. Mustard belongs to the same family as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, and kohlrabi. For centuries mustard has been used for culinary, as well as, medicinal purposes. Most notably it’s used as a curative for the common cold. I don't think there has been a child born before 1950 that has not had to suffer through at least one mustard plaster. The name comes from the Roman mixture of crushed mustard seed and must (unfermented grape juice), called mustum ardens or burning wine.

Because mustard seeds are so small, they have figured in much ancient writings. Mustard is used as an example by Buddah, in the Quran, and by Jesus in one of his parables in the Bible. Not bad for an itty bitty seed. Pope John XXII liked prepared mustard so well that he created a new position within the Vatican, 'grand moutardier du pape', or 'mustard maker to the pope'.

Mustard seeds are sold whole, ground into powder, or processed further in prepared mustard. Most of us know mustard by the form of prepared mustard. It is typically referred to as that “yellow stuff” we put on hot dogs at the ball park. As weird as it may sound, it is not the mustard seed that makes this prepared mustard yellow, but the addition of turmeric to the mix that suddenly makes it very yellow.

There are two major types of mustard seed, white (or yellow) and brown (or Asian). There is a third variety that is black which is the most pungent but has been replaced mostly by brown because it can be grown more easily and economically. White seeds are relatively large. Their flavor is spicy and almost sweet. Brown mustard seeds have a flavor that is hot and slightly bitter. Toast either sort of seeds in a little butter or oil in a skillet until you smell them.

Mustard seed's hot spicy flavor is great with meats, fish, fowl, sauces, and salad dressings. Whole mustard seed is used in pickling or in boiling vegetables such as cabbage or sauerkraut. Brown mustard seeds are an important flavoring in Indian dishes. Powdered mustard has no aroma when dry, but develops a hot flavor when it is mixed with water.

Out of mustard seeds? Try caraway seeds.

Recipes
Cajun Mustard
Maple Mustard BBQ Sauce
Rabbit Pastrami or other Wild Game
Creamy Slaw Dressing
English Pub Mustard

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Rosemary

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Rosmarinus officinalis

Records can be found tracing the use of Rosemary back to 500 BC. For hundreds of years it was used as a treatment for nervous system ailments. It holds a special position among herbs from the symbolism attached to it. It became a symbol of fidelity among newly weds. Not only was it used at weddings, but also at funerals, for decking churches and banquet halls for festivals, as incense in religious ceremonies, and in magical spells. At weddings, it was wound in the wreath worn by the bride, after being dipped in scented water. Anne of Cleves, one of the wives of Henry the VIII, wore such a wreath at her wedding. A Rosemary branch, richly gilded and tied with silken ribbons of all colors, was also presented to wedding guests, as a symbol of love and loyalty.

The botanical name Rosmarinus is derived from the old Latin for 'dew of the sea', a reference to its pale blue dew-like flowers and the fact that it is often grown near the sea. Rosemary is yet another herb that is in the mint family. The mint family gives us a lot of different herbs; basil, marjoram, oregano, and savory to name a few.

It is native to the Mediterranean area, where it grows wild, but it is now cultivated all over Europe and the United States. I have seen it used in certain parts of Arizona as a short hedge in landscaping. Rosemary is a popular spice in many Western countries, but its usage is most popular in its native Mediterranean countries, especially Italy and France, less so Greece. Rosemary does not lose its flavor by long cooking, as many other herbs unfortunately do. Rosemary is one of those herbs that are as potent in the fesh state as in the dried state. There are few herbs as pungent as Rosemary. Being subtle is not one of Rosemary's traits. Looking like a pine needle from a distance, this herb should be ground finely for optimum use. It is also used by better restaurants as a garnish. The flavor has been described as being somewhere between pine, mint, and lemon. It may be purchased in sprigs, as leaves, ground, and as an essential oil.

Use Rosemary for fish, meat (especially poultry), but also for vegetables. It is often used for potatoes and for vegetables fried in olive oil, as commonly prepared in Mediterranean countries. In Italian cuisine, mutton is hardly ever cooked without Rosemary, and broiled poultry wrapped in Rosemary twigs is also very popular. A similar effect can be achieved by sprinkling Rosemary leaves on glowing charcoal during grilling. Rosemary is an ideal herb for flavoring vinegar.

Rosemary is used both in the kitchen and in fragrances for cosmetics. During the winter holiday season there is nothing that will put you in the spirit of the season like Rosemaryed walnuts.

If you just can't seem to find Rosemary, an interesting substitute is oregano or sweet basil leaves and flowers.

Recipes
Meat Pie
Trout with Rosemary & Wrapped with Bacon
Tomato Rosemary Salad
Chicken Salad with Rosemary and Mayonnaise
Rosemaryed Walnuts

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Fruit Powders

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

When is a juice not a juice? When it’s a powder.

The store is known for a lot of things, one of the most unusual is the amount of different powders that are available. There are powdered herbs and spices, vegetable powders (more on these in a later article, and fruit powders. Fruit powder? Yes, I want to cover three of them for you. Most of us are familiar with herb and spice powders, for example, allspice, cumin, basil, mustard, and rosemary are available in powder form to name a few. We use these when we are trying not to introduce a coarse or chewy ingredient into a particular dish. The powder will tend to blend in and not be noticed for its texture, but just for its taste and flavor. Now let’s go over the fruit powders.

All of the powders we will discuss are citrus fruits. First let’s cover orange powder. If you were going to be doing some baking that called for an orange extract or just a touch of orange flavor, I would suggest using a little orange powder. This powder is dehydrated orange juice. So you can even reconstitute it back to orange juice with a teaspoon of powder per quarter cup of water. One of the secrets of using this powder is how well it works in rubs and spice blends. It is also great added to sauces, especially those intended for duck dishes. It is perfect for icings, sauces, glazes. It will add extra flavor to cookies & cakes. If you really want to make a tasty orange treat, add a little orange zest either fresh or dried. We have a blend that we do at the store that is nicknamed, “sin in a jar”. It is a combination of sugar, orange and cinnamon.

The next powder to consider is lemon powder. There are so many ways to use this powder. Many of the customers that come to my store and get lemon powder will use it straight to make lemonade. Just like orange it is one teaspoon of lemon powder to a quarter cup of water. They may also use it to enhance their fresh squeezed lemonade with the powder. As with orange, you can mix it in with lime powder and create all sorts of good things. I like to use it to make citrus salts or mixed with sugar to make a citrus sugar. This powder is great added to rubs and spice blends or simply sprinkled on any meat, but chicken and fish are particularly flavorful. Adding a little lemon zest to the powder is quite good as well. We use this powder along with zest from Spanish lemons and ground Tellicherry peppercorns to make a fantastic lemon pepper. If you want a good example of caveat emptor (buyer beware), go to the grocery store and read the ingredients list on most lemon peppers. Surprise! Most of them contain large amounts of salt. Sigh!

Finally, we come to lime powder. As with lemon powder there are many ways to use lime powder. I often use it combined with lemon powder to give me a very strong citrus flavor. Now that we are in the troughs of summer and fresh corn on the cob is readily available, take lemon powder, lime powder and pink peppercorns (ground to a powder). Mix these together and then add them to butter (make as if you were making an herbed butter). Now spread this wonderful compound butter on an ear of fresh corn and call me when it is ready. You may enhance lime powder with the zest of lime, but it is more difficult to do than with lemons and oranges. Limes have such thin skin that it is hard to zest without getting too much pith along with the zest. This will make the zest more bitter than you will want it. So, be careful when zesting limes.

There are many other fruit powders. Most are used commercially to be added to other products. Working with powders is fun and very rewarding in the kitchen. Don’t hesitate to give them a try.

Recipes

Citrus Peppercorn Herb Butter

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Parsley

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Petroselinum crispum curly leaf and/or Italian
Petroselinum neapolitanum flat leaf

Too Much To Drink? Eat Parsley! Bad Breath? Eat Parsley! Well One Out of Two

Another very old herb, in ancient times wreaths of parsley were used to ward off drunkenness. Parsley's success at this task is questionable, but we do love parsley for its other qualities. While there are more than 30 varieties, the two most popular are curly leafed and flat leaf or Italian parsley. Flat leaf is preferred in Europe for its richer taste while curly leafed is a favorite in the United States and Britain. A third variety is grown in Central and Eastern European countries. It has a larger root system than the varieties used for their leaves. This variety is used for its roots, much like turnips or parsnips.

The plant originated in the Eastern Mediterranean and then became popular in the North in the Middle Ages. It was often grown in monastery and Imperial gardens. Today, chopped parsley leaves are a popular decoration in Central Europe much like the use of coriander leaves in China, South East Asia and parts of India, mostly for soups and vegetables. Chervil is used as an alternate to parsley, especially in France. Parsley’s flavor suffers from any prolonged high heat cooking, parsley leaves should not be cooked if distinct parsley flavor is desired. Stems may be used in white stocks and sauces because they do not color the sauce as the leaves would and for their strength in flavor.

I am a big proponent of quick frying fresh herbs in olive oil. This is the one time that high heat and herbs is acceptable. There is one more important exception to the high heat rule and that is bouquet garni. Bouquet garni typically consists of a selection of fresh herbs (bay leaf, thyme, and parsley) which are tied in a bundle and cooked in soups, sauces or stews. Because of the long cooking time, the herbs’ qualities merge with the flavor of the other ingredients, enriching the food without being recognizable in the finished dish.

Parsley is a popular herb in Western Asia and often appears in Turkish, Lebanese, Syrian or Jordanian foods, particularly as a decoration for cold appetizers like hummus or tabbouleh, often regarded as the national dish of Lebanon.

Parsley has so much chlorophyll that chewing the fresh leaves will destroy the smell of garlic or onion on your breath. Parsley is also a mild calmative for your stomach and digestive system. Parsley is a great source of vitamins A and C. The small fruit of parsley has found little use in the kitchen. They can be used in vegetable stews or lentil dishes with very flavorful effect. Since the flowers are an efficient diuretic drug, large amounts of them may be hazardous, especially for people with kidney problems. The same holds true, but to a lesser extent, for the root. But, interestingly, it does not hold true for the leaves. There really isn't a good substitute for parsley unless you want to consider chervil. Chervil's nickname is gourmet parsley, but as the name implies it is a lot more expensive that parsley so is rarely substituted. It is usually chervil that is being substituted using parsley.

Recipes

Parsley garlic croutons
Parsley cola carrots
Braised Pork Roast With Paprika, Capers & Caraway
Havarti Tortellini Salad

Colonel De Stewart

Special Lent Edition

Lent is upon us. This is a time when a lot of us, Catholics and non-Catholics eat more fish. I thought it might be helpful to give you some additional recipes That you might enjoy trying for Lent. For those of us with snow up to our woopsie doodles, remember Spring follows closely behind Easter.

Recipes
Broiled Flounder with Greek Seasoning
Cajun Butter Catfish
Dishwasher Salmon
Seared Far East Tuna
Salmon, The Colonel's Way
Smoked Paprika Shrimp Salad
Teriyaki Honey Lemon Salmon

Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice
Findlay Market
1801 Race St., Stall #133-135
Cincinnati, OH 45202
513 421 4800

Spice University - Turmeric

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Curcuma longa

Yellow Root or Indian Saffron (Turmeric)

This spice goes back before Biblical times when it was used primarily to make perfumes, a testament to its exotic fragrance. Its use dates back nearly 4000 years, to the Vedic culture in India where it was used as a culinary spice and had some religious significance. It is mentioned in Sanskrit writings. This relative of the ginger family is used both for its flavor as well as for its color. When peeled, dried, and ground it has a bright gold or yellow color.

The name derives from the Latin terra merita “meritorious earth” referring to the color of ground turmeric resembles, the mineral pigment ochre. In many languages turmeric is simply called “yellow root”. It is often referred to as “Indian saffron”. Because of the strong association between India and spices in the olden days of Europe, many spices contain an “India-Element” in their names. Examples are, besides “Indian saffron” for turmeric, designations like “Indian nut” (coconut, nutmeg), “Indian date” (tamarind), “Indian anise” (star anise), “Indian parsley” (coriander) and many more.

Turmeric is used extensively in the East and Middle East as a condiment and culinary dye. In India it is used to tint many sweet dishes. In addition to its wide use in Moroccan cuisine to spice meat, particularly lamb, and vegetables, its principal use is in curries and curry powders. It is used in many fish curries, possibly because it successfully masks fishy odors. Turmeric is a primary ingredient in American yellow mustard. It is what gives American mustard its yellow color rather than the ground mustard seed. Turmeric is also an ingredient in Worcestershire sauce. Turmeric is often used lightly in dishes as a substitute for the much more expensive saffron.

If you are running short of turmeric, use curry powder which will probably contain turmeric anyway.

Recipes
English Pub Mustard
Spanish Style Shrimp & Rice Salad
Cauliflower and Red Lentil Curry
Turmeric Oyster Crackers

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Safflower

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Carthamus tinctorius

This imposter can dye food and cloth.

Another very old spice that was cultivated in ancient Egypt, China, and India is safflower. Colors on fabric found in Egyptian tombs have been tested and shown to contain safflower dyes. A garland containing safflower flowers was found in Tutankhamen’s tomb. Even though it has been grown for such a long time, it is usually grown on small plots for the farmers own use. It is a minor world crop grown mostly for its seeds, which have the oils extracted from them to make a low cholesterol oil that has a delicate flavor when used in cooked dishes. While there are over 60 countries that grow safflower, over half of the production comes from India.

Safflower was grown for its flowers to make dyes, especially before cheaper synthetic dyes became available. There is much confusion between expensive saffron and the much less expensive safflower. The flower petals, which are slightly bitter, have been used as a substitute for saffron in coloring foods. It does not have the same flavor as saffron. Some use it to adulterate saffron making a less expensive form of this very expensive spice. Another thing that safflower and saffron have in common is their Arabic language roots which both mean yellow.

The flowers look a lot like those of a thistle plant. Thistle and artichoke are both relatives of safflower. The flowers give both a yellow and a red color agent. Most of my female readers will know what rouge or blush is. Blush is obtained by adding the red element of safflower with fine powdered talc.

Safflower flowers in today’s cuisine have little to offer. They do appear in some Mediterranean mixes and it is sometimes used in the Georgian (Russia) mixture known as khmeli suneli which is mentioned in the A Little Spice of Life on savory. The seeds are often used in bird feed. It is sometimes substituted for sunflower seeds in bird feed since squirrels don’t seem to feed on safflower like they do sunflower. Within the last 2 years a genetically modified safflower has been developed that produces insulin. This holds great promise for many insulin dependent diabetics.

Recipes
Mayonnaise
Peanut Sauce
Applesauce Cake

Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice
Findlay Market
1801 Race St., Stall 133 - 135
Cincinnati, OH 45202
513 421 4800

Spice University - Rose

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel with an additional contribution from my friend Philomena Ashdown

Rosa

O, my love's like a red, red rose - Robert Burns A Red, Red Rose

You just can't talk about a rose without invoking the spirit of love and romance. The ancient Greeks and Romans identified the rose with their goddesses of love referred to as Aphrodite and Venus. Roses are ancient symbols of love and beauty. The rose was sacred to a number of goddesses (including Isis and Aphrodite), and is often used as a symbol of the Virgin Mary. Roses are so important that the word means pink or red in a variety of languages (such as the Romance languages, Greek, and Polish).

In Ancient Rome a wild rose would be placed on the door of a room where secret or confidential matters were discussed. The phrase sub rosa, or "under the rose", means to keep a secret — derived from this ancient Roman practice.

Grown for thousands of years, roses were cultivated as much for their culinary and medicinal uses as for their beauty and fragrance. I could go on and on about roses, as growing them is one of my favorite hobbies, but I won’t. Rose hips are eaten because of their high vitamin C content. Rose hips are used for making vinegar, syrups, preserves, herbal tea, and wines. Flower petals are added to salads and desserts, crystallized, made into jellies, jams, and conserves. Distilled rose water is used to flavor confectionery and desserts, especially in Middle Eastern dishes. This would indicate that they are mainly used in sweets, but rose petals are also found in the savory Moroccan spice mix, ras el hanout, and in North African sausages.

Culinary rose essence can be found in Asian or Indian grocery and spice stores. In China, native rose species (e.g., R. rugosa) have long been used as a source for floral scents in perfumery and for producing rose-flavored black tea.

For centuries, the divine fragrance of rose has been captured and preserved in the form of rose water by the simple process of steam distillation of fresh rose petals with water. It is an ancient method that can be traced back to biblical times in the Middle East, and later to the Indian sub-continent. Rose oil and rose concrete are produced in larger quantities than rose water. The world production of these was estimated to be fifteen to twenty ton in 1986 (the most recent figures I can find), with Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco, France, and Italy being the largest producers.

This months guest chef is Philomena Ashdown. She is actually an attorney, but is a great cook.

Colonel De and I befriended each other through our common love for spices and cooking and then found out that we also had another common business connection. He asked that I share recipes with his blog using the rose flavor. So here I am, a transplant to Cincinnati from Madras nka Chenna, India, with my ethnic roots from Mangalore.

Long before Nestle invented strawberry syrups and other flavorings, Indian cuisine had “Rose Essence”, used mostly for desserts and drinks. The delicate rose flavor has a more sharp yet delicate aroma than saffron but because it is less expensive, it is used commonly in desserts sold by the ubiquitous road-side “Mithai walla” (Mithai- means “sweet” – sweets vendor). In India, “sweetmeat” or “sweets” refers to desserts.
The “Mithais” sold by the roadside are also identified by their vibrant colors- almost neon-like pinks and greens, so much so that even fabric colors are also described as “mithai pink or mithai orange ” as opposed to the “peacock blue”, “parrot green “ or “sunflower yellow”.

Since rose essence is colorless, recipes call for adding a touch of red food coloring to make the dish slightly pink, so as to enhance the “rose” connection. You can pick up rose essence at any Indian grocery store.

The most common recipe using rose essence is the drink called “Falooda”. As with most Indian recipes, there can be numerous variations of the same dish, so here is my personal adaptation of this drink recipe.


PHILOMENA SALDANHA ASHDOWN
ashdown@fuse.net

Recipes

Kheer (Rice Pudding)from Philomena Saldanha Ashdown
Spinach Salad w/ Walnuts & Feta w/ Rose Petals
Sharbat Gulab from Philomena Saldanha Ashdown
Soji Halwa (Cream of Wheat Bars from Philomena Saldanha Ashdown











Colonel De Stewart

SPECIAL THANKSGIVING EDITION

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, I thought it might be a good time to revisit one of my favorite topics, brining. It is hard to find a better flavor than a properly brined chicken or turkey. I have attached one of my articles about brining. Learn what it is, how to do it, what ingredients you will need, as well as other usful tips.

Click for everything you ever wanted to know about brining, and more.

Thank you for your participation in Spice University.

Spice University - Curry Powder

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Curry Powder, Curry Leaves Murraya koenigii; syn. Bergera koenigii, Chalcas koenigii

Curry Powder, Curry Leaves and the British Empire

I think it is probably time to talk about on of the more pervasive and at the same time confusing blends. There are some blends that are so popular that you need to include them in any list of regular herbs and spices. One of these is a blend called curry powder. Packaged curry powder was probably a British invention. Hoping to export to England the flavors they had enjoyed in India, the British likely took back with them one of the southern spice mixtures - perhaps a kari podi (curry powder) or a sambar podi (sambar powder). This blend was added to Western style flour bound stews that were then dubbed curries. Indian cooks do not use a single spice mixture to flavor their cooking. Rather each dish is flavored individually with a combination of spices, called a masala, that may be simple or complex and that varies with the individual cook, the dish, and the region.

Along with tea, curry powder is a true Pan Asian ingredient. It is popular and heavily used in Indian, Bangladeshi, Sri Lankan, Nepali, Indonesian, Malaysian, Pakistani, Thai, and other South Asian and Southeast Asian cuisines, though curry has been adopted into all of the mainstream cuisines of the Asia-Pacific region. Dishes that are often classified as curries in Europe and America are rarely considered curries in their native countries. This is because we have a tendency to just add curry powder to a dish we already know and think that it is then a curry dish. Curry dishes from the Asian-Pacific region require a lot of preparation and a lot of cooking. We also do not use hot chilis as often in our curry dishes as they are used in Pan Asian dishes.

Curry powder should not be confused with curry leaves. In India the leaves of this shrub are called curry patta. They have long been used in Southern India and Sri Lanka. Curry powder is a blend of many spices, curry leaves being only one of many spices used. In addition to being used in curries, fresh curry leaves are also used in chutneys. So what the heck is chutney, I hear some of you asking. Culinarily speaking, a chutney (and there are several hundred different ones) is a thick sauce of Indian origin that contains fruits, vinegar, sugar, and spices and is used as a condiment.

Curry leaves are as important to Asian food as bay leaves are to European food, but you would never substitute one for the other. A word of caution, when added to hot oil, fresh curry leaves will spatter, so stand back and have your spatter screen ready. Curry leaves will also burn easily, so steady as she goes. If fresh curry leaves are pulverized in a blender, they make a great contribution in a chutney. Chopped tender leaves are delicious in an omelet or scrambled eggs.

Get to know Indian and Asian cuisines; they have a lot of different flavors to offer and they are usually much healthier than our typical Western fare.

This months guest chef is Marilyn Harris.

Recipes

Curried Scallops
Lentils with Goat Cheese & Wilted Spinach on Sautéed Portabella Mushroom
Coconut Chutney
Spinach Salad w/ Berries & Curry Dressing
Curried Rice Salad










Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Nigella

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Nigella sativa

There is a lot of confusion about the name of this spice. Nigella seeds are also known as kalonji, black cumin, black caraway or black onion seeds. They are the tiny, tear-drop shaped seeds of a small plant whose beautiful flowers have been known for a long time as Love-In-A-Mist. To make matters worse the seeds are sometimes confused with black sesame seeds which have a similar size and color. In an effort to clear up some of the confusion, let me point out that there really is a black cumin seed (kala jeera) and some onion seeds are very similar, but they are not nigella seeds and would not taste the same in a dish. True onion seeds tend to have little, if any, flavor and the flavor that they do have tends to be rather unpleasant.

Nigella’s main application area is Turkey, Lebanon and Iran. From Iran, nigella usage spread to Northern India, particularly Punjab and Bengal, where the spice is mostly used for vegetable dishes. Their dusty jet black color and earthy, distinct onion flavor is an essential part of Panch Phoran (Indian Five Spice), a Bengali spice mixture.

The black seeds taste oniony yet some say they taste like oregano crossed with pepper. Most people use it as a "pepper" in recipes with pod fruit, vegetables, salads and poultry. Because of nigella seeds crunchy texture, it is sprinkled over soft tandoor-baked breads, such as naan, as is done in Northern India. While the seeds are used as a spice in Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine, in the Balkan region it is sometimes used with or instead of peppercorns in a pepper mill.

Recipes

Bengali Fish Curry
Potatoes With Crushed Nigella Seeds
Naan with Nigella Seeds










Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Vegetable Powders

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel


Carrot powder? What do I do with that?

Most of us are familiar with herb and spice powders, for example, allspice, cumin, basil, mustard, and rosemary are available in powder form to name a few. We use these when we are trying not to introduce a coarse or chewy ingredient into a particular dish. The powder will tend to blend in and not be noticed for its texture, but just for its taste and flavor. But, what about vegetable powders? I’m going to ignore the two most common vegetable powders, onion and garlic, since most of us have used them at least once. There are some who would argue whether they are vegetables or not. Beside, there are others lurking in the shadows of our cookery just waiting to be discovered and used.

What are they and how do I use them? I would like to cover three with you. The first is beet root powder. I happen to be one of those strange individuals that really like beets. It has even been suggested to me, by my eye doctor, that I should try to eat even more beets. Turns out beets are rich in beta carotene. This is the stuff that is very good for your eyes. It has been my experience, that I do not belong to a very big club. A lot of folks just don’t care for them. Let’s get back to beet powder. Beets are actually very sweet. A lot, I would say most, of the sugar that we eat today doesn’t come from sugar cane, as we would rightly assume, but the sugar actually comes from beets. How they get the beets from red to white is a whole other class. Let’s just say that they do that transformation everyday. This information should give you a hint as to how you might use beet powder. Since it is very red, you may use it to dye or add red color to almost any dish. Some anti-chemical folks will use it to dye Easter eggs. But besides the color, what we are really after here is the sweetness. In the winter and early spring it is hard to get good fresh local vegetables. The ones we can get can turn a little bitter as you cook them. Simple solution, add beet powder. It won’t give the food a beet flavor, you don’t use that much. It simply sweetens the dish without having to resort to processed sugar.

If the red color is really bothersome to you, there is another powder that can be used in exactly the same way and doesn’t turn everything red. Meet carrot powder. Carrot powder has a very slight orange cast, but won’t turn food orange when used. Like beets, carrots are also very sweet, so the addition of carrot powder is another way of turning bitter dishes sweet without going to our old friend processed sugar. Check with your doctor, but most of the time even those with sugar problems can use beet and carrot powder without adversely affecting their sugar levels. You can also use these powders to sweeten drinks like tea and fruit drinks.

The final vegetable powder brings us full circle. Let’s say that we have a dish we are making and all of a sudden it goes very sweet. What can we do? It is tomato powder to the rescue. Since it is also red, it can be a bit tricky, but if you are careful you can add just enough tomato powder so that the acidic nature of tomatoes tames the sweetness. Tomato powder is also good when you want to enrich a dish that already has tomatoes in it, but the flavor is still somewhat flat. Like I mentioned before, during the winter and early spring tomatoes seem to lack in flavor. An easy remedy is to add a little tomato powder. Adding it to tomato soup is like giving your soup a wonderful tomato infusion. Give it a try.



Recipes



Since these powders are used to enhance a dish and therefore are not an integral ingredient in the dish, I am going to turn the recipe portion over to you. Once you have experimented with these powders, drop off or send your recipes to me by e-mail and I will publish some of the best.

Calendar of Upcoming Events for September

September is another very busy month. If you are local to the Greater Cincinnati area, I hope that you will try to attend some of these pretty cool events.

September 20th is Lunch on the Land. This event features 10 chefs from the Greater Cincinnati area combined into 5 teams of 2 each. Each team is in charge of a different course of a 5 course meal. The proceeds from this event will go to Findlay Market Foundation. The participating chefs are: Julie Francis chef/owner Nectar, Victor Brown chef Molly Malone, Jody Miller chef/owner Bouchards, Luke Radkey sous chef University Club, Joanne Drilling chef Slims, Jean Robert deCavel chef in residence Summit at Midwest Culinary Institute, Debbie Spangler chef/owner Yummy~issimo!, Colonel De Stewart chef/owner Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice, Matt Madison owner Madisono's Gelato, Summer Gimetti Pastry Chef Palace at the Cincinnatian Hotel, and Josh Campbell chef/owner World Food Bar. Unfortunately the event has sold out, but a waiting list has been started. To be put on the waiting list, please call Karen Kahle at the Corporation for Findlay Market at 513-665-4839. You can still enter to win a pair of tickets to the event. Just click Donate/Reason for Payment/Raffle. Tickets are $10 each for a chance to win a pair of tickets valued at $250. Who knows, you could be the lucky winner joining local food enthusiasts and chefs at this unique food event.

September 21st Salt Presentation for the American Culinary Federation at the Millennium Hotel. This event is closed to the general public.

September 22nd Class on Salt cooking, salt curing, and salts in general with Chef Joanne Drilling and Chef Colonel De Stewart.

September 24 Come Together Culinary Event Join us as we welcome Chef Nick Tolbert the Midnight Gourmet, Rita Heikenfeld herbist extrodinare, and Chef Colonel De Stewart and sample some of their favorite recipes and feed your passion for gourmet cooking while showing your support for the Freestore Foodbank.

Ticket price is $15.

Please RSVP at 513-247-6411 and macys.com

*All proceeds from the event will benefit the the Freestore Foodbank . Ticket transaction will be completed at Macy's prior to the start of the event. Cash or Check only. Please make checks payable to the the Freestore Foodbank.Macy's KenwoodLower Level Thursday, September 24th 6pm

Community Foundation’s Key Event to be held September 26th

The North Ridge Realty Group’s 16th Annual Key Event will be held on Saturday, September 26th. Presented by Clark-Theders Insurance Agency, Inc., the Key Event draws more than 450 people, while raising more than $100,000 for the communities of West Chester and Liberty Townships. All proceeds from the event benefit The Community Foundation of West Chester/Liberty and the Community Grant Fund. The event begins at the Cincinnati Marriott North with a cocktail party that includes a live and silent auction. Upon arrival guests randomly pick a key that will reveal their dining location in one of the 25 homes in our community that have invited guests to enjoy an evening in their home. Each home will feature a premier chef from the area who will prepare a wonderful meal for all attendees. The evening concludes with an after party at the home of Dick and Patti Alderson.

All members of the West Chester and Liberty Township community are invited to the event.

Prior to the event, guests are encouraged to visit the Foundation’s website to preview the 12 baskets that will be featured in the basket raffle. Each basket features a different theme and can be viewed by clicking here http://wclfoundation.com/web/KeyEventBasketRaffle.html Community members that are unable to attend the event, can pre-purchase raffle tickets for their chance to win one of the fabulous baskets.For more information about the event, please contact Melissa Benedict at 513-874-5450 or by email Melissa@wclfoundation.com More Information

September 28th College of Mount St. Joseph Life Learn Program Legends and Forgotten Herbs

Three families of plants give us an abundance of herbs that we use today in our kitchens and one even gooes so far as to give us spices too. That makes these three families the Legends of Herbs and Spices. Is there a handful of herbs that we've forgotten to bring into the kitchen for a very long time? Let's see if we can bring them back again. 12:30 to 2:00pm Wellness Center, Mt. St. Joseph. Mailin registration only to LifeLearn Program, 5701 Delhi Road, Cincinnati, OH, 45233-1670.

Spice University - Thyme

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Thymus vulgaris

One of the more popular herbs in the American cuisine is thyme. There are many varieties of thyme. The most common are garden thyme and wild thyme. Garden thyme is sometimes referred to as English thyme or common thyme. Wild thyme is preferred in French cuisine, where it is a widely used herb. Another variety, lemon thyme, is an exquisite blend of the earthiness of thyme and the pure freshness of lemon. Lemon thyme is achieved by crossing common thyme with wild thyme.

There are very few poultry, meat, or vegetable dishes that can't be improved with the use of thyme. Thyme is also used for soups, fish, and eggs. Thyme is one of the ingredients in Bouquet Garni (typically parsley, thyme, and bay). It is also one of the ingredients in Herbs de Provence (usually chervil, tarragon, savory, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, lavender and sometimes fennel). The only caution in using thyme is that, in general, you should use less than you think will be needed. Remember, it is much easier to add more should the flavor be too flat.

Thyme’s popularity is nearly global. It is a common herb in Britain second only to mint in popularity. In addition to the myriad uses in American cuisine, thyme is also used in Cajun and Creole cooking. Thyme is a key herb in several Asian cuisines, as well as, being found in Jamaican dishes and Central American foods.

When you can't find thyme (no pun intended), you could try young sage leaves and flowers.

This months guest chef is Marilyn Harris.

Recipes

French Chicken in Red Wine
Pasta Salad w/Broccoli & Artichokes
Simple Savory Roasted Chicken
Italian Sausage Soup










Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Bay

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Bay laurel Laurus nobilis and California Bay laurel Umbellularia californica

Bay is the Herb of the Year for 2009 as selected by the International Herb Association. Each year this group chooses a different herb to reign as Herb of the Year creating greater awareness for each herb chosen.

This ancient herb, bay laurel, also known as true laurel, sweet bay, Grecian laurel, comes from a Mediterranean evergreen. It has long, narrow, pointed, dark, and leathery leaves. The flavor is between eucalyptus, mint, lemon and fresh cut grass and has been described as smoky & spicy. Don't confuse this with California bay which is what is usually sold here as bay leaves. The leaves have a similar shape, but the California bay leaf feels softer by comparison. The flavor is pungent, sweet, lemony, and spicy, with a hint of cloves and bizarrely, turpentine.

It is the source of the laurel wreath of ancient Greece, and then later the expression of "resting on one's laurels". In the Bible, the sweet-bay is often an emblem of prosperity and fame. It is also the source of the word baccalaureate (laurel berry), and of poet laureate.

We are always cautioned not to eat bay leaves. Why is that? The reason is rather simple. bay leaves are very tough and when broken or chewed display very sharp edges. Our systems have a difficult time breaking these leaves down and making them soft. So, as they move through our bodies, they become like small razors tracking through our systems. The swallowed leaves can cause serious injury to your esophagus, stomach and more. Always remove the bay leaves from whatever dish you have prepared.

If you are out of bay leaves you may substitute thyme.

Recipes

Hearty Beef Stew
Paté Maison
Rabbit Stew
Urad Dhal









Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Lemon Balm

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel


Lemon balm Melissa officinalis

A great lemon flavor that, well, isn’t from the lemon. The mildest of the lemon group of herbs

A member of the mint family, lemon balm is used as a calmative. It was used in the Middle Ages to reduce anxiety and stress. As a native of Southern Europe, it is still very popular and widely available in Europe. In Central Europe, lemon balm is sometimes used to flavor sweet drinks.

Lemon balm has lemon scented mint like leaves that are most often used to make an aromatic tea called Tisane. Its slightly tart flavor is used in salads and with poultry and meat dishes. Lemon balm is often used as a flavoring in ice cream and herbal teas, both hot and iced.

Most of the time, lemon balm is used in combination with other herbs such as spearmint. It has a great affinity with fruit, especially apples and is also frequently paired with fruit dishes or candies. Lemon balm can be used to add zest to sweet or tangy dishes. Besides spearmint mentioned earlier, it works well with allspice, bay leaves, mint, pepper, rosemary and thyme. Lemon balm is also great in fruit salads, green salads, herb butters, fruit drinks, and sorbets.

It can be used in egg dishes, custards, soups and casseroles. It is a delicious complement in stuffing for poultry, lamb or pork. Its subtle lemon flavor is perfect for sauces and marinades for fish. Lemon balm and chervil are also a good combination. Use lemon balm leaves for any dish containing lemon juice to get a more intense lemon aroma. If you are a pesto fan, like I am, try substituting lemon balm for basil in a batch of pesto. I don’t think you will be disappointed.

As balm, this herb is mentioned in the Bible. If there is no lemon balm to be had try lemon grass or lemon verbena.

Recipes

Smoked Salmon with Lemon Balm
Lemon Balm Syrup
Honey & Lemon Balm Tea Cookies
Lemon Balm Liqueur

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Dill

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Dill Anethum graveolens

Dill means pickling and so much more

Dill weed has been around for thousands of years. Romans in the first century were convinced that dill brought good luck. The name dill, probably came from the Saxon word dillan, to lull, for its ability to soothe colicky babies and for the Greek tradition of covering the head with dill leaves to induce sleep.

Dill leaves have a flavor that is pungent and slightly tangy, almost caraway tasting. Dill is one of the best complements for many foods not to mention their importance to dill pickles. Fresh leaves loose their flavor quickly when being cooked. For this reason it is always best to add them as near the end of the cooking cycle as possible. The herb is sold as both fresh and dried. There is quite a difference between the flavor of fresh and dried dill weed. While heat is the enemy of fresh and dried dill leaves, it brings out the flavor of the seeds. Dill seed, actually the fruit of the herb, are more strong and pungent than their counterpart, leaves. Dill seeds are the part of the dill plant used most often in its namesake dill pickles.

The characteristic, sweet taste of dill is popular all over Europe, Western, Central and Southern Asia. In Europe, it is mostly used for bread, vegetable (especially cucumber), pickles, and fish; for the last application, the leaves are preferred. It is also indispensable for herb flavored vinegars.

In North Eastern Europe and Russia, dill is popular for pickled vegetables, which are produced in great variety, usually by pickling in vinegar. Fresh dill sprigs are mandatory in most recipes of that kind. In these regions with long, cold winters, preserved vegetables are an important source of vitamins and fresh flavor for the otherwise dull winter diet. Dill is also one of the few herbs used in the cooking of the Baltic states, where chopped dill is a frequent decoration on various foods (e.g., boiled potatoes), similar to the use of parsley and chives in other European countries.

Fresh dill leaves (dill weed) is a kind of “national spice” in Scandinavian countries, where fish or shellfish dishes are usually either directly flavored with dill or served together with sauces containing dill. German cooks also tend to use dill mostly for fish soups and stews. Dill reached the Northern latitudes probably via medieval monasteries, where it was grown as a medicinal herb.

Dill has, however, retained its popularity in its original homeland, Asia. Dried dill shows up in Georgia's (Russian Georgia not the US Georgia) famous spice mixture, khmeli-suneli and is also quite popular in Iran, where dill weed is usually employed for bean dishes, e.g., rice with boiled lima beans, baghali polo.

In India, however, dried dill fruits are occasionally used to flavor the lentil and bean dishes known as dal.

Recipes

Dill Lemon Cod or Salmon
Carrot Sticks and Dill
Marinated Vegetable Salad











Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Nutmeg

A Little Spice of Life
From the Colonel

Nutmeg - Myristica fragrans

As far as I know, (and I am counting on you out there to set me straight), there are only three rather common plants that give us two very different spices from each plant. Eventually we will cover them all, but let’s start with, nutmeg and mace. I’ll give mace its due in a future article, but mace is the somewhat lacy cover of the nut that we call nutmeg. There is one more plant that does this but in our European based cuisine we rarely use either one. I'm talking about fenugreek seeds and fenugreek leaves. Never the less, we will cover these as well, some time later.

When Columbus sailed off and found a continent we all know and love, one of the spices he was looking for was nutmeg. Native to the Spice Islands, the seed of the nutmeg tree (a tropical evergreen) was very popular throughout the world from the 15th to the 19th century. In Colonial times in America, if you were invited to a fancy meal, even if it were being hosted by President George the First, you were expected to bring your own nutmeg, which you would grind onto the meat dish. You brought your own because it was too expensive for your host to provide. You used it on the meat of the feast in an effort to cover up the bad flavor of the usually partially rotted meat. Remember, no refrigeration back then.

Nutmeg can be used on savory things, as in the example of the meat above. It is still good used on meat, though these days the meat is usually not as rotten. But, we also love nutmeg in sweet dishes. In the Southern tradition a fruit pie just isn’t quite ready to be cooked if there isn’t some nutmeg in it. During the Holiday Season, I won’t drink my Egg Nog if there isn’t a good brisk brushing of nutmeg on top.

Nutmeg is best freshly grated. The flavor is delicately warm, spicy, and sweet.

If you don't have nutmeg, try using mace, but be gentle as mace is much stronger.

Recipes
This first recipe was accidentally left off of last month's list of recipes for chives. It is by my very dear friend Rita Heikenfeld. This is a "must try" recipe.

Shaker Herb Soup

These recipes are for this month's spice, nutmeg.

Butternut Squash and Cranberry Bread
Melon Soup
Scalloped Oysters 2

Colonel De Stewart

Calendar of Upcoming Events for April

April is a very busy month. First, is a wonderful class at Mt. St. Joe, here in Cincinnati on Trivia, Myths and Legends of Spices. This event is on Tuesday the 7th of April.


For the third year in a row Herbs & Spice and Everything Nice will be a part of the Fine Food Show which occurs during the first weekend of the very popular Cincinnati Flower Show. Please stop by and say hello. The details are below. Click on the image below for more information.

Next event is 1 Night 12 Kitchens at Midwest Culinary Institute. It is on April 26th. I will be doing a salt tasting in one of the kitchens. This event provides for the scholarship fund. It is a very worthwhile event, if you can join me, please do. I would love to see you. Click on the image below for more information.

Colonel De Stewart

Spice University - Chives

A Little Spice of Life
From The Colonel

Chives Allium schoenoprasum

Chives, a bold flavor from the smallest of the onion family.

Chives are diminutive tubular versions of scallion leaves (from the Latin ascalonia meaning onion from Ascalon). FYI, Ascalon (then spelled Ashkelon) was the oldest and largest sea port in ancient Israel. The Battle of Ascalon in 1099 is often considered the last action of the First Crusade.

Chives are the smallest member of the onion family. I used to wonder why they were always referred to in the plural. I never saw anything that referred to a chive. The answer is that they grow in clumps and not as individual flowers, so they are quite rightly, chives. When Columbus and others came to the new world there were very few plants and especially herbs that were familiar to them. They did know chives. It is one of the few herbs native to both the Old World and the New World.

Chives are used often in French cuisine. It is one of the four herbs found in fine (pronounced feen) herbs along with tarragon, chervil, and parsley. Fine herbs are also referred to as French sweet herbs. Given the fame and notoriety of French cooking, it is not surprising to find chives as a part of the cooking scene. What is a little surprising is that chives are also a major player in the Swedish cuisine. The reason for this is probably that they are one of the few herbs that can grow in a very cool climate.

When used in dishes, add the snipped chives close to the end of cooking to preserve their flavor and crispness. Both chives and their edible pink and lavender colored flowers are a tasty and colorful addition to salads. These flowers are also excellent when used to make flavored vinegars especially when using white wine vinegar as the base. Chives give a hint of onion flavor to egg dishes, cheese soufflés, salads, soups, cream cheese sandwiches, and sour cream dressing for baked potatoes. Chive butter is great with grilled chops and steak.

A member of the lily family, many of its cousins also appear in this collection. They include; onions, garlic chives, Welsh onion and garlic.

When chives are unavailable green onion tips may be substituted.

Recipes

Chives Halibut Stew
Chives Roasted Vegetables

Colonel De Stewart